Women selling chantilly in Murillo Square. Mujeres vendiendo chantilli en la Plaza Murillo.

Discover Chantillí: The Sweet Charm of La Paz

In the heart of La Paz, among the bustle of its squares, lies a culinary treasure known as Chantillí. This dessert, which has become a city classic, is a delicious cream with gelatin that accompanies the people of La Paz every day.
Puesto de venta de chantilli en La Paz. Stree kiosk selling chantilly in La Paz
In the plazas of La Paz, the Chantillí stands out as a popular dessert that combines cream with gelatin. It is part of the daily life of the people of La Paz, especially children, who for decades have delighted in the sweet-sour taste of this dessert made by the “chantilleras,” ladies who handbeat the cream in large buckets at their sales spots. Chantilly originates in France, in the 17th century, when it was created by the Swiss chef François Vatel in the Château de Chantilly for a party of Prince Louis II of Bourbon. The original recipe consisted of lightly sweetened whipped cream flavored with vanilla. Although the Bolivian version has been adapted and is called Chantillí, its name and the basic technique of whipping the cream maintain a link with this French culinary tradition.
One of the most curious characteristics of traditional Chantillí in Bolivia is the combination of evaporated milk and lemon juice, which involves a whipping entirely by hand in the same workplace of the chantillera girls, a traditional technique that has been passed down through generations,
“The cream must rise as much as possible and the whipping must be done by hand for 5 to 7 minutes,” assures Marisol Guzmán, seller of the exquisite cream at Murillo Square.”

For the people of La Paz, Chantillí evokes nostalgia, bringing back memories of family gatherings in squares such as Plaza Murillo, Plaza Villaroel, where on weekends you can find a family-friendly atmosphere, or Plaza Eguino, Plaza Quiroga Santa Cruz, which are part of the city’s more commercial areas.

The best way to arrive while appreciating the unique views that La Paz has is by taking the cable car route from the Estación Amarilla, which is just steps away from the Hotel Casa Fusión. You can reach:

  • Plaza Murillo: Starting from Hotel Casa Fusión, after about 50 minutes on the cable car route you can reach the Estación Naranja, which leaves you a few blocks from this plaza.
  • Plaza Villaroel: Starting from Hotel Casa Fusión, after about 35 minutes on the cable car route you can reach this point.

Visit the squares in the afternoons, during this time, the atmosphere is calm and the vendors are ready to offer you a full and delicious glass of Chantillí, with or without gelatin. A glass costs between 3 and 6 Bolivianos.

Street vendor selling chantilly, drinks and snacks. Vendedor ambulante vendiendo chantilli, bebidas y bocadillos.
Street vendor with chantilly in Murillo square. Vendedor ambulante con chantilly en la plaza Murillo.

If you manage to try this dessert and love it, here we leave you the basic recipe for Chantilly paceño.

Ingredients:

  • 1 can of evaporated milk (400 g)
  • 2 lemons (their juice)
  • 1 cup of sugar
  • Gelatin of your favorite flavor (optional)

Preparation:

  1. Freeze the evaporated milk for a few hours until it is very cold.
  2. Beat the milk in a large bowl with manual beaters or a fork (if following tradition) for 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Add the lemon juice slowly, drop by drop, while continuing to beat to prevent the milk from curdling.
  4. Incorporate the sugar little by little and continue beating until the cream gains consistency.
  5. Serve the Chantilly over gelatin if desired, or just in small cups.
Women selling chantilly in Murillo Square. Mujeres vendiendo chantilli en la Plaza Murillo.

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