Traditional bread altar with lit candles for celebration. "Altar tradicional de pan con velas encendidas para celebración."

An Altar of Flavors and Faith: The “Todos Santos” Table in La Paz

All Saints "Todos Santos" is a Bolivian tradition that involves each family preparing a table or mast’aku to welcome their loved ones who have passed away, as they return from the beyond on November 1st to accompany them. During this day, the favorite food of the departed is offered to family, friends, and visitors, and bread and masitas are given to those who raise a prayer in their honor. This belief, deeply rooted in Bolivia and the Andes, celebrates the reunion with the deceased each year.

The festival of “Todos Santos” celebrates the eternal cycle of life and death. This festival’s main protagonist is the All Saints table or mastaku, where in each home a black tablecloth is placed on a table, along with several symbolic elements that, according to belief, facilitate the soul’s entry and exit from the earthly world. On November 1st, before noon, the souls (Ajayus) return to the world of the living to reunite with their loved ones. This table is maintained for 24 hours after the souls depart in the afternoon of the second day (November 2nd). Like most festivals held in Bolivia, this festival is deeply tied to the agricultural cycle and to Pachamama (Mother Earth), as it coincides with the “paray pacha”, the rainy season that marks the transition from the dry to the wet season.

Colorful Todos Santos altar with offerings. Altar colorido de Todos Santos con ofrendas.
Traditional bread offerings with colorful decorations. Ofrendas de pan tradicional con decoraciones coloridas.
In the “Todos Santos” table, the t’anta wawa is a human-shaped bread that symbolizes the deceased family member or acquaintance. The escalera, also made of bread, allows the soul to descend from the Alajpacha (the afterlife) to the Akapacha (earthly world) and the Manqhapacha (underworld). Figures like the horse help the soul cross the “river of death” and transport food. The crown, made with flowers or dough, replaces the crucifix in non-Catholic families. The sugar cane is used as a cane to guide the soul on its journey, while the tuquro (onion stalk) quenches its thirst. Fruits, such as pineapples or apples, are sweet offerings for the soul. Candles are lit in its honor and sweets are placed, especially for the souls of children. The holy water and retama help to ward off the negative, while the coca welcomes the soul. The deceased’s favorite food and beverages are also an essential part of this ritual.

Several families prepare the table in their homes and also in the cemetery, where the “Todos Santos” tables can be freely seen.

The elements to create these “Todos Santos” tables are purchased in popular markets in the city of La Paz. Many are brought from rural areas, such as onions, sugar canes, and other elements. The masks of the tanta wawas are made by talented plaster artisans and a wide variety can be found since they have to resemble the deceased. You can visit these markets from mid-October.

All the masitas “products made from dry dough such as bread, cookies, alfajores, maicillos” and also the tanta wawas can be bought, but in tradition, each family must make their own masitas as a tribute to the effort the deceased gave when alive, as a reminder of our affection and so that our effort in making them ensures the soul’s round trip journey.

All these masitas are given as thanks to the people who pray for the loved one and who accompany the family members on this day. At the end of the prayer, the family members usually say “may the prayer be accepted”, it is a wish that the soul of the deceased accepts the prayers and finds peace in its journey back.

cholita en escalera para poner flores cementerio general. Cholita on a ladder to place flowers in the General Cemetery.
Colorful altar with food and flowers in a cemetery. Altar colorido con comida y flores en un cementerio.
Musicos rezando en el cementerio general de La Paz, Bolivia. Musicians praying in the General Cemetery of La Paz, Bolivia.
Mascaritas de tantawawas. Masks of tantawawas.

From Hotel Casa Fusión, for 30Bs you will be only 30 minutes by taxi from some of La Paz’s most traditional neighborhoods, such as San Pedro, Max Paredes, and Isaac Tamayo, where the fairs for the “Todos Santos” table are located. Also, about 35-40 minutes from the Hotel Casa Fusión, you can visit the Cementerio General, and the best way to appreciate the views of La Paz’s Cementerio is by taking the cable car route from the Estación Amarilla, just steps away from Hotel Casa Fusión, where you can see the assembled “Todos Santos” tables.

Traditional bread altar with lit candles for celebration. "Altar tradicional de pan con velas encendidas para celebración."

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